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This was probably the longest single day, in terms of distance - approximately 17 miles. Much
of it was downhill, including the infamous "Golden Staircase" leading out of Upper Palisade Basin,
which accounts for a loss of 2,000 vertical feet in 2.5 miles. After that, the hike proceeded along
the shaded valley floor for about 6 miles, until turning South, into the Kings river canyon.
The canyon trail starts out close to the water, but soon winds up the slope onto the hot, dry
flank of the mountain, far above the cold, clear water for long stretches. The increasing pain in
my feet, the hot still air, the complete absence of other hikers, and the smokey pall hanging in
the air of the canyon began to wear on me. Maybe it was the fact that, even as my feet worsened, I
would be out of bandages and moleskin by the end of the day. Apparently, the moleskin I was using
was suceptible to heat, sweat and friction, which caused it to slough off within 30 minutes of
application. Maybe it was gerbilskin or some other product?
One of the highlights of the day came as I passed a churning 70-foot wide water hole called Devils
Washbasin. It's actually the last in a series of successively larger pools, each filled by a water
fall over jumbled granite boulders.
It was hot this day. Probably in the neighborhood of 90F at 4:00 PM, and it remained almost uncomfortably
hot even after dusk. By 6:00, I made a spot near Cartridge Creek, and, though derpressed by the prospect
of wrecking my feet the following day, I made a dinner, did some laundry, and settled into my tent for the
night. In the fading twilight, I watched as first one, then another, then a dozen or more bats zoomed low
over my tent (almost all screen, so I could see out quite well), feasting on the mosquitos who'd been my
tormentors only minutes before. I like bats.
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